Trail describtion:

A gorgeous, mostly forested trail that begins and ends with a stunning view of Porto da Cruz’s defining landmark—the Penha de Águia. Forest lovers will be in their element here, with charming paths and the fresh scent of trees and diverse native plants.


The route is relatively easy throughout, the paths are well maintained, and unless nature has other plans, the whole trail feels incredibly comfortable.

Trail characteristics:

Trail is subjectively rated as Moderate.

The length of the trail is 14  km (8.7 miles) and journey will take you around 04:30 hours. The elevation on the trail is 396  m. The highest point on the trail is 610 m and the lowest 214 m.

Bird watching Flora & Fauna Forest Hiking Levada Urban Views Wildlife

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Personal hike notes

It begins at the Portela viewpoint, where Porto da Cruz and the iconic Penha d’Águia unfold beneath you. From here, follow the waymarked PR5 (Vereda das Funduras) into the hush of the laurel forest—springy, needle-strewn ground, ferns, and occasional “balconies” looking out over green valleys. This loop blends the best of Madeira: deep laurisilva calm, historic footpaths, and, toward the end, views across the terraced cultural landscape above Machico. Because you return to Portela, logistics stay simple and there’s no need to juggle transfers between start and finish.

Much of the route runs through forest, which is often fairly damp, so solid waterproof footwear is a must. Higher up—and especially at the initial viewpoint—it tends to be windier; pack a scarf or beanie and you’ll be glad you did. The easiest access is by car, but you can also reach a stop near the trailhead by buses running between Funchal and Porto da Cruz—lines 208, 53, and 20.

The first half is classic PR5: the forest thickens, the air grows more humid, and the path undulates pleasantly through Funduras. You then reach sections where the trees gradually open and the terraces begin to appear. Waymarking is intuitive, but it’s still worth having an offline map on your phone. After rain, roots and wet stones can be tricky, so don’t expect a marathon pace here. The quiet is broken only by wind in the canopy and birdsong—often scented by laurel blossom in spring.

The second part of the loop leads from the upper slopes of Maroços along quiet country lanes and, at times, beside a levada toward Machico, where the return climb back to Portela begins. It’s smooth and not demanding, though the final push onto the ridge will remind you that you’ve covered some ground. The reward is wide-open views—sometimes inland, sometimes out to the ocean—and the sense of having walked through several faces of the island in just a few hours. Back at Portela, feel free to linger: the wind may gust, but the pre-sunset light makes for a perfect closing scene.

Set aside about 3–4.5 hours for the loop, depending on photo stops. The elevation gain comes in shorter, cumulative climbs. Regular sips of water and a small snack help. Expect humidity in the forest and wind along ridge sections, whether you arrive by car or by the Funchal–Porto da Cruz bus lines. Swapping long high ridges for a mix of forest, terraces, and levada makes this an ideal day out—big on experience, light on extremes.

Where to sleep near the Faja dos Rolos start
The start is 33 minutes from Funchal, down towards Porto da Cruz and Faial. Both villages are closer but neither has a well reviewed place to stay, so Santana is the practical base at 17 minutes.
BudgetPorto da Cruz · 7 min from start
Jaca Hostel Porto da Cruz
Free parking and a shared kitchen a few steps from Maiata beach. Rooms with private or shared bathrooms, garden and sun terrace.

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ApartmentSantana · 17 min from start
Casa da Mãe
Kitchenette and terrace in the centre of Santana, steps from the traditional houses. Check-out opens at 06:00, so pre-dawn starts are no problem.

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UpscaleSantana · 19 min from start
Hotel Quinta Do Furao
Free parking, breakfast and two pools on the cliff above Santana. Kettle in every room and a restaurant on site for a late return.

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ApartmentSantana · 24 min from start
Ilha Natura
Kitchenette, washing machine and free parking, plus a terrace and a balcony over a quiet street in the hills above Santana.

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HotelArco de São Jorge · 27 min from start
Quinta das Hortênsias
Free parking, breakfast and a kettle in every room. Sea views from the balcony, 250 m from the centre of Arco de São Jorge.

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SpecialSão Jorge · 30 min from start
São Jorge Cottage - By WeHost
Country house above São Jorge with private parking, a fireplace, a washing machine and a full kitchen. The closest base to the Levada do Rei start.

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Trail details

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Comments and photos from those who have completed this trail

One Comment

  1. Jesper Grona
    Jesper Grona 2026-05-13 at 17:16

    Tried this route today. Super nice, but it doesn’t work from Marocos where you go up into the forest. When cross Lavada dos Marcos it’s impossible to go further due to vegetation (position: 32.7362861N, 16.8029236W). Bad experience, and then there is only the road all the way back.

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