I’ve done this trail probably five times already. Maybe even more – who’s counting? In my opinion, it’s the best and most beautiful route for an easy walk when you have a free afternoon. Or when the weather is miserable on most of the island.

The southern part of the island has its own microclimate, you see. While it’s raining in the north and clouds hang over the mountains, the sun usually shines here. Though to be honest – I did experience rain here once. But that was more of an exception proving the rule.

Two Levadas, One Climb, Zero Stress

The trail takes you along two levadas – Levada do Moinho and Levada Nova – which run along the cliff one above the other. Imagine it as a two-story highway for hikers. Only instead of cars, there’s flowing water, and instead of billboards, you have valley views.

The only proper climb on the entire trail? The transition between these two levadas. And when I say “proper,” I mean about 10 minutes of walking uphill on well-maintained steps. Since the levadas are close to each other, it’s nothing that should discourage you.

My recommendation is to start on the lower Levada do Moinho and return via the upper one – Levada Nova. Why? Because that’s where the biggest highlight of the entire trail awaits you, but more on that later.

Parking Is the Achilles’ Heel of an Otherwise Nearly Perfect Trail

Now seriously – arrive early. Really early. While this trail isn’t touristy overcrowded, the parking area at Igreja da Lombada church holds a maximum of about 20 cars. And that’s it.

If you arrive at noon, you’ll have a problem. After lunch? Forget about it. I’ve seen people circling in their cars like vultures, waiting for someone to leave. It’s not fun, especially when you have a planned schedule and parking delays everything by an hour.

The Way There: Along Levada do Moinho

You park in front of Igreja da Lombada church – if you manage to. Quickly check it out and walk around it to the right. At that moment, a stunning view of the valley opens up, along with the start of the trail along Levada do Moinho.

Amazing views accompany you right from the start. The valley is initially wide, you can see all the way to the sea, and gradually, as you move further inland, it narrows. But there’s still plenty to look at. After about two kilometers, you’ll notice another path leading down in the valley. That’s an alternative route: you can go directly through the valley. Both paths meet at the end, so if you feel like a change, you can take the valley route back. I’ve done that trail too. Personally, I prefer sticking to the levadas – the views are better.

After roughly four kilometers, you’ll reach the source of Levada do Moinho. There’s a small dam here and the Ribeira da Ponta do Sol stream begins. When the water level is low, you can wade across to the other side, but it’s not necessary. You’ll need to backtrack a bit anyway to find the stairs to the upper levada.

Transfer to Levada Nova

To get to Levada Nova, go back about 200 meters and look for nicely maintained stone steps. You’ll climb a few dozen meters in elevation – it’s the only real ascent on the entire trail, but anyone can manage it. You’ve covered approximately four kilometers along the first levada, a small climb, and the return journey begins.

The Waterfall!

After approximately 500 meters along Levada Nova comes what I keep coming back for again and again. A beautiful waterfall under which the levada itself passes. You literally walk right under the falling water. Yes, you’ll get a bit wet, but that’s part of the experience.

You’ll definitely spend some time here. If you set off really early in the morning, you’ll have it to yourself. Otherwise, this is where most tourists on the trail congregate. But even so, it’s not like Charles Bridge on a weekend. You can still take photos in peace and enjoy the atmosphere.
Right after the waterfall comes the first and last tunnel on this trail. It’s short, no headlamp needed. The light from your phone is more than enough. Then you just gradually make your way back to the start.

Even though you’re going back almost the same way, just a few dozen meters higher, the views from this angle are different again. The valley gradually widens, views of the sea reappear, and from this perspective you see things you overlooked on the way there. It simply never gets old.

A Few Practical Tips to Finish

Watch out for the weather along the way. Although the south of Madeira is generally sunnier, changes come quickly. Always pack waterproof clothing. That’s a basic rule for keeping your spirits up on any trail in Madeira. Trust me, being soaked on a levada is not pleasant, especially when the wind is blowing.

A headlamp isn’t necessary, but if you’re afraid of the dark, feel free to bring one. However, you’ll really manage that one tunnel with just your phone.

And once again, arrive early. Not just because of parking, but also for that waterfall. Being there completely alone, just you and the falling water… That’s a moment you’ll remember long after returning home.

This trail is simply a sure bet. Every time I don’t know what to do with an afternoon in Madeira, or when friends visit and I want to show them something beautiful without completely “destroying” them, I choose this combination of two levadas. It hasn’t disappointed me yet. And I believe it won’t disappoint you either.